Wendy and I got three-day passes for the temples at Ankor Wat, and took a tuk-tuk with a guide to the temples on the "long tour" for the first day. The trip to the temples was pleasant, it was a warm day and several flowers were in bloom and perfuming the drive through the country. When we got to the entrance of the temple sites, we still had a drive ahead of us and we bumped along the jungle and rice paddy lined road through villages and to the older temples. We passed so many banana trees! I was in heaven with the fresh fruit there and I'm drooling just thinking about two weeks in Thailand. Mangoes will be eaten!
Our guide was a bubbly man in his late twenties or early thirties (I can't remember) who had grown up on a subsistence farm in a rural part of Cambodia, when he was 18 he moved to Phnom Penh and started working construction by day and going to school by night. He eventually learned enough English and Cambodian history to become a tour guide (the tests are apparently pretty strict, and his knowledge of historical names and dates was really impressive), and he said his mother doesn't believe him when he says he works in the tourist industry.
It bothered me that subsistence farming was so looked down upon--especially since it's the kind of thing we need now and the Western world is slowly swinging back that direction--but I can see where the itch to get out of poverty comes from. Wendy was pretty into how long his nails were, and has some photos of his well manicured hands. I loved how he would laugh and gesture in a very friendly, bubbly, slightly effeminate way during our conversations. I had some fun trying to teach him the pronunciation of "ashes"--he had trouble with the "sh" sound and was saying "asses," which is harmless enough and I told him it wasn't an issue at all since his English was very good but he insisted on perfecting it.Anyway, back to the temples. It was seriously like walking into a Indiana Jones film (I believe Bayon was used in the filming of one of them), except with less tunnels and snake pits, crocodiles or Nazis. And the Asian children were Southeast Asian and trying to sell us things instead of Northeast Asian and trying to tag along for the adventure. Oh, and we were the beautiful women but independent enough that we totally could have rocked fedoras and a bull whip (though, I don't know about using one).
It was surreal to be climbing on and touching something older than anything in the States. I always want to touch the items in museums, and this was way cool because the whole structure was an artifact! It was crazy to imagine the people who built the structures, the wars they withstood and the changes in religious figures--the older temples started out as Hindu, and were converted to Buddhist usage after Cambodia became a Buddhist nation. Banteay Srey started as a Hindu temple and became known as "The Citadel of Women" when Cambodia became a Buddhist nation, because of all the goddess imagery.
Wendy even got to jam while we were in the temples! There was a band of landmine victims playing traditional Khmer (Cambodian) instruments and Wendy impressed them with her spoons. She traded instruments with a man who had no right forearm and made their day. She wasn't just a tourist, she was exchanging cultures and having fun. ^_^
The temples were of similar architecture (except Bayon
which has a bunch of contented, smiling Buddha faces carved into every facet of the building), but our guide (I feel like a terrible person for forgetting his name already) was pretty good about taking us to temples from different eras so I didn't get "templed out." We even got to watch the sun set over the jungle on a not-too-crowded temple.
The next day, we went to Ankor Wat, which is the biggest temple and the reason Jackie O went to Cambodia back in the day, but I was less impressed with Ankor Wat than with the other temples we had seen the day before. I do recommend going, if just to see the immense grounds, but I think Bayon was the coolest looking (followed closely by Ta Pohm, which is all overgrown with jungle)
and Pre Rup is the oldest and that was the most awe inspiring.
It was a pretty good two days.
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